As I’ve mentioned before, I’m super psyched for our spring break trip to Indian Creek. Not only do I LOVE crack climbing, especially beautiful Creek splitters, but I’ve also learned from experience that I need to put in the work and training to prepare myself for a successful trip. So training is what I’ve been doing, in a more focused way than I think I’ve ever trained for climbing before.
Feeling strong in the Creek in November 2009 (on Swedin-Ringle)
My primary focus was endurance, because I had great endurance on my last trip to the Creek, which helped me send a couple of my projects and not get pumped on any route (except one) until I was being lowered. It made a huge difference. I usually climb at the gym 2 nights a week, so I’ve started working an endurance night into most weeks: either a crack endurance night (climbing 2-3 laps on a crack without rest x 7-8 cracks = a lot of pitches) or a TR face climbing endurance pyramid (2 laps per route on 10b, 10c, 10d, 11a, 11b, 11a, 10c, 10a, or similar pyramid, with rests only between routes, to belay my partner).
On my other weekly climbing night, I’ve been pushing myself to try harder on lead and work on projecting things, rather than trying to onsight something and getting discouraged and moving on if I don’t send first try. Over the course of the past couple months, I’ve become more comfortable getting on routes that I can’t onsight. I’ve focused on being relaxed and playing on the moves, enjoying trying to push my highpoint. I’ve previously had a lot of trouble with nearly crippling anxiety before a hard lead (or, at it’s worst, before any lead), but now I’m relaxed and excited for a lead. I’m able to accept a little bit of nervousness and move on. I’ve also been improving a lot in my redpoints. I recently sent my first gym 12a on only my 3rd try (yes, until this week I’d climbed harder outside than inside, and I hope to revert to that state in the Creek!), and I hopped on another 12a (and fell, which was ok with me) right afterward.
I’m also running and doing core exercises regularly. In almost any measure (except for leading trad outside, for which the weather is not cooperating), I’m in better shape than my last Indian Creek trip (and I was in really good shape for that trip). My psych and confidence are high, my lead head is good, and I’m working really hard on school stuff to get as much done as possible before my little (well-deserved) vacation.
The only picture of Tricks are for Kids on mountainproject (from Karsten), doesn't it look AMAZING???
In other news, I really want to go check out Tricks Are For Kids at the Creek. I’ve scoured the internet for inspiring photos, but it’s slim pickens out there. Photos or beta to share would be awesome and greatly appreciated.
So, as it turns out, training works! Whoa. Imagine that. And I’m actually still enjoying my 2 nights of climbing in the gym (I’d previously thought training=drudgery=no fun). How’s your winter training going?
Lizzy
No training, basically. I don’t know anyone willing to stay at the gym long enough with me until I’m tired doing routes. It’s always “I’m tired, we’ll hit it hard next time.”. I guess going to the gym with other people should always be more of a social event than training, and I should go by myself and stick to bouldering if I actually want to “train”.
Maybe 4×4′s for endurance? Have you tried using ClimbFind to find more psyched partners? I actually met my awesome partner SK through ClimbFind…
One thing to think about for the gym is the difference between climbing partners and training partners. Getting someone else to commit to a goal helps share the suffering of endless belaying. This can be a different kind of relationship compared to a friendly partner who you hang out with socially (but doesn’t care for doing laps or staying late). I’m sure there are some people who go to Stone Gardens who have endless energy and are looking for partners if not try Vertical World! Most people who are motivated all the time are always looking for the occasional belay slave and are willing to reciprocate. Who says training can’t be fun/social?
Thanks for the advice… I should check out climbfind again, last time I looked there was a lot of “I want someone to teach me how to climb” (which I have nothing against, but not really what I’m looking for). Don’t know what I’m worried about since I’ll fly to the other end of the country in two directions to climb with random people on twitter
Right now I’m trying to invite myself to @snarkybumbler’s place to train
I know what you mean about climbfind, but I think there’s definitely also the odd really motivated person who’s looking for a psyched training partner. I was really specific about what I wanted (girl partner, works on 5.11/5.12-, climbs trad) and didn’t get too many random other people contacting me. Plus I had no problem saying no thanks
You really do still have plenty of time to get some quality training in if you figure out a good way to do it, 3.5 weeks is a long time!
Hehe, I’m trying not to get my expectations up too high for Indian Creek, since it’s my first time there and I’m going with a big group. So I’m trying to put it in more of a “I’m going to learn how to crack climb, maybe” instead of “woohoo I’m going to send everything!”. But your enthusiasm is kind of infectious
Everyone is advising me that it’s going to be sandbagged, I’m going to have to tape (which I’m not used to) and I probably won’t be able to get up anything. I don’t think it’ll be that bad (people said the same thing about JTree but I found it pretty similar to Index/Leavenworth) but I guess since I haven’t been there I don’t know what I’m talking about.
Tape is definitely a good idea (I only don’t tape on the super thin hand cracks), because even if you don’t usually tape on granite (I don’t), the cracks are like sandpaper and if you don’t have absolutely perfect technique and keep your hand totally still in every jam… Basically it’s really easy to lose a lot of skin on the first day or 2, and then it doesn’t grown back that trip so you keep ripping it open, and it’s just not good news.
I also think a lot of 5.10s can feel hard (especially Generic Crack!) because they are perfect hands for some dude with #3 Camalot hands, which means they are twisted cups/fists/offwidth for me. The key is finding the “5.11″ red camalot “thin” hand cracks… Soulfire, Pop Quiz, and Scarface are some examples. Coyne Crack is also mostly red camalots, although the initial section requires a couple moves of fingerstacks and super thin hands to get to the glorious part.
I’m sure you’ll have an awesome trip no matter what. The Creek is a ridiculously awesome place to climb
I have #3 Camalot forearms and feet, so that’s cool. Except that I only own one #3 Camalot…
What are friends for if not for kidnapping their cams and taking them on an Indian Creek trip?
One thing of note is that most routes at Indian Creek are super easy (C0) to aid climb as long as you have a couple of cams left. I feel this makes it easier to get on challenging climbs.
Hey Lizzy! I’m inspired! I doubt I can make it to IC this spring sadly (just got back from a road trip to AZ, UT, CO) but I’ve been wanting to start training at the gym and honestly wasn’t sure where to start. I think I have a better idea for a plan of attack now though after reading this! I’m looking forward to your IC trip report – I’m sure it will be a sendfest!! Keep it up!!!
Glad to inspire some gym training
I’ve been really pleasantly surprised by how directly addressing my training goals has actually made a big difference. I’m so psyched to get out into the desert again. Hope you have a good spring of climbing, even if it doesn’t include Utah!
hi Lizzy,
Nice article! I climbed with Lin tonight, and your article was the source of inspiration for our night of endurance training. I have a couple questions…for the TR pyramids how do you select the level of your hardest route? Sounds like you lead 12-, and you chose to make the top of your pyramid 11b?
Also, I like the idea of pushing myself more on lead during my other night in the gym.
Thanks!
~Kate
My general strategy has been climbing as hard as possible without falling. My onsight level in our gym (especially on TR routes, which tend to be a little harder than lead routes) is around 11b/c, but I fairly consistently onsight/flash 11b, and not always 11c, so 11b is a good top of my pyramid because I can *just* do it twice without falling. For me, too, it’s felt more important to focus on moving efficiently and climbing while tired, rather than climbing hard (which is what my other gym night is for). I think there was a recent article on endurance workouts in one of the climbing magazines and I think he also recommended doing laps at or just below your onsight grade. Hope that helps!
Winter training for me has been going well. My partner and I have been doing what we call “mountain man training” to gear up for some high sierra routes this summer, namely the Hulk and Mt. Russell. Our training days consist of doing 4 laps on 5.10B up to 5.11B for a total of 20 routes, breaking from the 4 laps to belay the other, then doing some sort of interval training on the weights after that. Here’s a few of our gems:
“Cindy” rounds (from crossfit.com) – 10 rounds of 5 pull-ups, 10 pushups, 15 squats
4 rounds of 14 reps Overhead Lunges, 7 reps DB Bench, 7 reps BB push press (vary weight accordingly)
3 rounds of 10 pullups, 10×70# thrusters, 10 dips, 10 burpee box jumps
10-8-6-4-2 Pull-ups, 70# Goblet Squats, 45# BOSU Piston Press, Burpee box jump
Our biggest hurdle is finding time to crack climb! Same story on our end – weather and busy schedule has kept us off some good winter cragging, but we’ve managed to get to the Grotto a few times and Sugarloaf once. Looking to head to Calaveras here in 2 weeks weather permitting, otherwise we’ll make a run for the Valley.
These posts are keeping me seriously motivated.
wow, the grotto has been dry? was it during those couple dry weeks in late Jan/early Feb?
good to know someone else is doing endurance training in the gym, some people look at me and my partner strangely when we do several laps in a row on a route.
Right, that was during the dry spell in Jan/Feb.
Another suggestion for training, although admittedly I haven’t tried this yet, comes from a climbing buddy of mine that routinely sends 13 on sport. His advice for endurance training:
Up-Downs – get on lead, and pick the easiest lead route (generally a 5.10B or C). Climb up to the first bolt, clip, climb down to the start hold, up to the second bolt, clip, back down to start, and so on until the end, never letting go of the wall or putting your feet on the ground. Just make sure you buy your belayer a 6 pack when it’s all said and done!
wow, that sounds like total destruction – I want to try it! is the idea that you only do it once (on one route) or that you do several a night if you have enough skin/time/energy/belayer patience? thanks for the comments!
I’ll let you know when I get through one.