Mar 232013

The months of 2013 have blurred together and the routine of daily life has been flying by. It has been a crazy year so far and I can barely believe it is already my birthday.

Every year I take a look at my big list of walls and routes I want to check out in Yosemite. Liberty Cap had been on my mind and the south-facing aspect, ideal for a winter project, pushed it to the top of the list. I was able to get in touch with Josh Mucci, who had done a number of first ascents on Liberty Cap, and figured out a good first objective. When my efforts on Liberty Cap are all finished up, I will write another post with more photos and some specific beta.

One of the best parts of this project so far has been the out-pouring of support. Friends have been helping hump loads, clean dirt, drill bolts and figure out beta. Many different partners on different days have helped push the free route up over the half way point. Each of the first seven pitches have been climbed cleanly and I have redpointed six of those pitches. Some unknowns still remain and it has been challenging climbing ground-up.

Trying to free climb an aid line is  full of surprises and excitement. I have really enjoyed having to figure out each pitch and taking steps towards a much bigger goal. All the little victories have made the whole process much more manageable. Both Josh and Steve (the FAists)  have been helping out with beta and are psyched to see action on one of their routes, since many of their Liberty Cap aid lines are unrepeated. It has been a great project so far and while it’s still unfinished I wanted to share some photos.


Luke Mini-traxioning the first pitch.

Luke mini-traxioning the first pitch.

Steve laybacking up the killer second pitch.

Steve laybacking up the killer second pitch. Great rock quality with an extra helping of dirt.


Steve figures out the crux section on the third pitch.

Steve figures out the crux section on the third pitch.

Yosemite - Scarface - March 2013 059

Checking out the crux finger crack.


Past the cruxy face traverse.

Past the cruxy face traverse on Pitch 5.


Yosemite - Scarface - March 2013 046

Enjoying sunny weather on the P6 offwidth.


Casey lower down pitch 6

Casey lower down pitch 6


Casey is always psyched!

Casey is always psyched!

Thanks for all the help and support!

– Luke

Leave a Reply