I have been feeling recently that words and stills couldn’t quite adequately describe the experience of doing a triathlon, so for the Luna Bar Triathlon this past weekend, I decided to make a video! This was my longest triathlon yet: 0.5mi swim, 20mi cycle, 4mi run. I finished in 2:03:51, for 4th place in my age group (out of 16) and 55th overall (out of 298). This was only my 3rd tri, so I’m still kind of a newbie when it comes to training, and I always learn something. This time I learned that I needed to actually go on 20mi bike rides to train (rather than 13mi bike rides)…

So without further ado, check out the video:

Lizzy

You may remember that it was not that long ago when I blogged about my first triathlon, the Silicon Valley Sprint Triathlon on June 12th. Well, it was so awesome that I decided to do some more! I knew right away that I wanted to return to the Luna Bar Women’s Triathlon Festival, where I got my first taste of multisport in the duathlon last August. But it was a long time until the end of August, so I decided to do another event in between. The TBF Tri-for-Fun2 was perfect because it is held at the same park by the same race organizers as the Luna Bar Tri, and the courses are very similar (the Luna Bar cycle and run courses are a little bit longer).

Lizzy tries to get rid of some nerves

This triathlon was held at Rancho Seco Park, which is out east near Sacramento. It’s not that far away, but it is far enough that we had to leave at 4:30am to get there in time to stake out a good spot in transition, check in, warm up, and deal with pre-race nerves.

Where's Lizzy?

I was a little nervous for the swim course because it was significantly longer than my previous tri (800m vs. 500m) and the air was a little chillier. However, the water was surprisingly warm and much less murky than at Lake Almaden. As a result, I was able to follow a couple swimmers in front of me (letting them break their stroke to check our direction instead of having to do it so many times myself). I think I ended up averaging a little over 2:00 per 100m, which is generally what I’ve been doing in the pool.

Women's heat one is off!

I think my T1 was a little faster than before – the short run from the swim exit to transition was grassy and allowed me to get most of the sand off my feet before I got to my towel. I’m still not super fast at jumping on my bike, but I don’t think I’m really competitive enough yet for those couple of seconds to make a significant difference for me. The bike course, an out-and-back course on a relatively flat road with gentle rolling hills, was also significantly longer than that on my first tri (16mi vs. 8.8mi), but I had raced on the course before (the Luna Bar Tri/Du does the same out-and-back, except with the turnaround another 2 miles out), so I knew what to expect. Not surprisingly, I was much faster on my tri bike than on my normal road bike that I used on the duathlon. The course is flat enough that I was able to stay in aero position almost the entire time, in addition to staying on my big front gear for maximum efficiency. My top speed was about 25mph, and my average speed was around 19mph. I think I averaged about 14mph on my road bike on the same course (well, the same course +4 more miles and maybe in a little worse shape).

Lizzy works to minimize her T1 by running out of the water!

My T2 also went better than my first triathlon. My feet were drier (I’d been on the bike for about 50 minutes this time) and I did a much better job of putting my socks on. My legs definitely felt much more tired starting out the run, but I tried to stay in a positive mental state, focusing on how light I felt and how warm my muscles were, rather than how tired my legs were feeling. I got a little psyched out on the run, since I expected the aid station to be at the turnaround (1.5mi) and it was actually at ~1mi, so I got all excited to be halfway done, only to realize that I still had a ways to go before halfway. With some effort, though, I was able to stay positive and keep pushing. It didn’t hurt that I was passing tons of people and could tell that there weren’t that many women ahead of me (i.e. I was doing well in my age group).

On the bike leaving the transition.

Since my legs were quite warm (read: tired) by the final stretch, I was able to do an even better sprint to the finish than my first triathlon. (I know this is counter-intuitive, but I have a major tendency to pull my quads when I really sprint hard, so I only really go full-throttle when I know my quads are happy.)

Lizzy staying in aero position as she finishes the bike.

Although I was definitely more physically tired than my first tri, I still felt good after finishing and relaxed in the shade with Luke to wait for the awards ceremony. They were giving awards 5 deep in 5-year age groups (mine is women 20-24) and I was almost certain I’d done well enough to get an award. It actually turned out that I won my age group, which I think is my best race result ever (I won my age group at the Luna Bar Duathlon, but I was the only one in my age group, so there wasn’t much competition).

Lizzy in first for women 20-24 with the other top finishers.

So my second triathlon was just as awesome as my first! I’m pretty excited for the Luna Bar Tri at the end of August (I’ll have some work to regain some fitness after my 3 weeks doing geology in South Africa, but that’s ok). It continues to impress me that, although I used to consider myself a pretty unathletic person, I’m now a successful triathlete! I’m even entertaining wild and crazy thoughts of doing a Half Ironman at some point…

Lizzy

Back in August 2009 I did something new. It was the Luna Bar Duathlon, part of the Luna Bar Women’s Triathlon Festival. A duathlon is like a triathlon (swim, bike, run), except you run the first leg (run, bike, run). I hadn’t wanted to do the triathlon because I didn’t have consistent access to a pool to train for the swim, but when I was running the first 2-mile run leg on a hot, dusty trail… I thought that it might make a whole lot more sense to swim, too.

After the duathlon, I decided I wanted to try a triathlon. I could use more aerobic fitness and having a goal (a race) to train for helps motivate me. It was a long road. My first year at Stanford was a busy one, plus finding my awesome climbing partner, Sarah Kate, made me really psyched to climb. I had an awesome fall (of climbing), culminating in a fantastic trip to Indian Creek. But once 2010 started, I knew I needed to make it happen.

I signed up for the Silicon Valley Sprint Triathlon. I could’ve trained more, but I didn’t. There’s still school and climbing and personal time and I haven’t figured out how to schedule everything appropriately yet. I’m working on it. But I did train, especially running, which is my weakest leg.

On June 12th, it was go time. My stomach was full of nervous butterflies. I had a banana for breakfast (plus 2 shot bloks right before the start and lots of water) while we drove down to Lake Almaden in San Jose. I checked in and Luke helped me set up in the transition area. I’ve gotten a lot of new triathlon toys since my duathlon, including a tri suit, my sweet tri bike (thanks Luke, Mom, and Dad for helping out with that!), tri bike shoes (easy to put on + designed to wear sock-less), an aero helmet, and a racebelt (you have to wear your number on the run, so it’s nice to just clip it on without having to wear it the whole race or put on an extra shirt with the number pinned to it). I’m happy to say all my gear was awesome, but then I’m getting ahead of myself.

My transition all set up, including my aero helmet, tri bike shoes, and neon green race belt.

The men started in the first 4 waves, separated by age and road vs. mountain bike race. I waited around on the beach and tested out the water waiting for my wave (road bike women 29 and under), the first of the 4 women’s waves. A lot of people were wearing wetsuits, which worried me, but the water was actually a perfect temperature for swimming (if it isn’t somewhat cold when you first get in, you’ll overheat once you start moving). The shore of the lake dropped off surprisingly quickly, so when I paddled out to the start line with my wave, we were all treading water.

Waiting in the shade before my wave starts.

We started and there was a lot of splashing and jostling. Although the lake water felt nice, it was quite murky (I could barely see my hand when it was all the way extended at the end of my stroke). I hadn’t expected this (I mostly swim in a pool), so it took a while to adjust to how often to pop my head up and check my orientation with the next cone. I did it too much at first, but after a while I was able to do it less often as I started to trust myself to swim in a straight line. I felt like I wasn’t doing too great, although it turns out I was only about 10th in my wave (you don’t notice how many people are behind you, only in front). I made the two turns of the swim and jogged into the transition zone (passing my first dude, who was walking to the transition zone).

My wave (the neon pink swim caps) starts!

At my transition, I wiped some of the sand off my feet before sticking them in my bike shoes and grabbing my helmet. I jogged out of transition with my bike. I guess I passed a couple people who’d worn wetsuits (it takes a non-trivial amount of time to take them off). I wasn’t super fast getting on my bike, which is clearly something I need to practice. I got out onto the bike course and relaxed into a rhythm. We’d ridden the bike course before, so I knew what to expect – mostly flat with one hill at mile 3. I survived the hill, even passing a bunch of people (many were walking their bikes), which was impressive because my tri bike is not geared for hills, whereas a bunch of people had mountain bikes, which definitely are geared for hills. I was a little less comfortable on the downhill and some of the turns on the course than I’d like to have been, so I did get passed by a couple women, although I continued to pass dudes, which continued to be awesome.

Starting out the bike leg. I heart my awesome Quintana Roo Lucero!

At my bike transition, I was slowed down a little by the fact that my feet were still a little wet (I’d expected them to dry out more, but the bike ride was pretty short), so it took me a couple extra seconds to get my socks on. But I saved some time by putting on my race belt (with race number), headband, and sunglasses as I was running out of transition. I managed my initial adrenaline surge on the run well, remembering to save energy rather than going out too fast – I did still have a 5k to run. I continued to pass people on the run (I think I only got passed once or twice myself), which was great motivation to focus on the person in front of me, run them down, then move on to the next person. It was not too hot yet, so I didn’t stop at most of the aid stations.

Heading out of transition for the run!

I was still feeling good by the end of the run and starting building my pace in the last 1/2 mile or so and sprinted the last 200m. I love being able to really have a strong kick at the finish and I passed another woman in the last 100m (although I don’t think she was in my age group). I felt awesome when I finished, although I insisted on retreating to the shade before I’d talk to Luke (it was hot). We proceeded to wait around and eat free burrito and pizza to pass time until the awards ceremony. I ended up getting 3rd in my age group (20-24-year-old women) with a time of 1:13:17 for the 500m swim, 8.8mi cycle, and 3.3mi run, which I was very happy with. I also placed 3rd in my age group for each individual leg, so I was satisfied with that too. I did train, but not that much, so I could definitely do better if I train more (I’m in the process of trying that now).

Finishing strong! I just passed that girl behind me :D

Although the rest of the event was great, the post-race organization was pretty poor. I think we waited 2 hours from when I finished until the awards ceremony started (it was over an hour after they’d promised it would be). Then when I got up there it took them about 10 minutes to find my prize bag. But, on the bright side, my prize bag was awesome and included goggles, an insulated swim cap, and compression socks. Thanks!!!

So I learned that triathlons are awesome and fun, especially when they are short (so I don’t get that tired) and I am excited to do more in the coming months. I also love the feeling of passing dudes who started ahead of me :D   And finally, I’ve been learning recently that it’s good to just do what I’m psyched on at the time, and right now that’s triathlon! I’m planning on doing a couple more in the next few months (including the triathlon at the Luna Bar Women’s Triathlon Festival in August).

Are you psyched on triathlons? If you’re a woman and interested in triathlons, I totally recommend trying the Luna Bar Festival! The atmosphere is great and there are Super-Sprint tri’s and du’s, along with a longer sprint distance race! Let me know if you’ll be there and we can share our pre-race nerves and post-race exhaustion!

Lizzy

As we’ve said before, it’s been an unusually rainy winter here in the Bay Area, which is not so good for climbing. However, believe it or not, there are other things to do besides climbing when the weather is not cooperating. This past weekend was another one of those non-ideal weather weekends.

Since we weren’t headed somewhere far away to climb on Friday night, we decided to check out the Planet Granite Friction Series comp at PG Sunnyvale. While the idea of a route climbing comp is awesome (because I think I’m proportionally much better at routes than boulder problems), it seems like the massive crowds are an issue that makes route comps not translate as well from elite level to the citizen level as bouldering comps do. In fact, since I got started a little late, I only had time get on 3 routes in the ~2.5 hours I had (it was 3 hours long, but I got there a little late and did a few warmups first). I did manage to tie with 4 other ladies for 2nd place in womens’ advanced, which I was a little bummed about (if I had more time to get back on either of the routes I didn’t flash, I’m pretty sure I could have improved my score). Oh well. Next time I know to get there and warmup way before the official comp starts so I can maximize my time to wait in lines…

Luke did pretty well in the comp, too, because mens open had a ton of strong dudes, taking huge whippers.

Anyways, it was interesting experience and I’m interested to get back to the gym and see what they ended up grading the comp routes I tried (I, of course, have some strong opinions about what they should be graded).

Given the forecasts for precipitation on Friday and Saturday, we decided that skiing was the thing to for the weekend. A real skiing weekend, not just a weekend of snowboarding that we end up calling a “skiing” weekend. Which meant Luke was getting back on skis for the first time in a long time and I was trying skiing for the first time. Impressively enough, we both had our own ski set-ups, so we didn’t have to rent anything.

Look, we have skis!

I wasn’t really sure how I was going to do at skiing, since, when I was learning to snowboard, most of my friends were also switching to snowboarding because they said skiing was harder. After trying skiing, I’m not sure what they were talking about – it feels so much more natural for me to be facing downhill, to not have my feet attached to the same board, and to get poles to help me balance (plus its easy to get off the lift!). I’m not a good skier yet by any means, but it all felt so intuitive. Anyways, I’m psyched to practice more next season (isn’t it climbing season now?) and get good enough to start tagging along on backcountry ski trips.

I'm skiing!

Heading down to try out a blue run.

Luke enjoyed getting back on skis too, although I guess he didn’t get as lucky with his ski boots as I did (mine are really comfortable!). He played around in the trees and powder on the sides of runs, while I stuck to the groomers to practice my turns on a smoother surface.

Luke likes skiing too :)

I guess it’s pretty uncommon to switch from snowboarding to skiing, but it seems like skis are so much more logical any sort of backcountry endeavor (and, it turns out, skis feel more natural to me anyways, so I’m so glad I tried). I know a snowboard can be really awesome in fresh powder, but there’s so much terrain where it’s not so fun… flat stuff, moguls… What do you think about the skiing/boarding debate? Which is more fun in more conditions? Which is better for backcountry?

I think I’m gonna stick with skiing for now, cause it was just so much fun!

Things have been a bit slow here at DreamInVertical over the last month or so. Life has been exceptionally busy and the climbing trips have been plentiful.

We are pretty behind on trip reports and hopefully many will get finished over this holiday season. I finally completed writing my reflections and trip report from my first attempt on Freerider and, thanks to editing from Lizzy, it just went live. It’s a bit long, but hopefully a good read.  As the year comes to an end, Lizzy just finished up her first quarter of grad school and I am in the process of changing jobs and moving to the Sunnyvale/Palo Alto area.  Things are chaotic and I expect to get back to a more normal schedule come January  or February.

Luke enjoys a lap on Gunsmoke.  Photo thanks to RockGrrl

Back in November Lizzy and I attended the 1st annual #jtreetweetup. It was very cool to meet the many people that we chatted with online and help show them around Joshua Tree. Hopefully Lizzy or I will be writing a post from the trip soon. The highlight for Lizzy was a send of Gunsmoke! This has been a long time project and she has gotten quite close in the past. This trip she aced both cruxes and had enough endurance to finish it off. I was psyched to do a bit of exploring around the park in the mornings before meeting up with the Tweetup crew and found a new project. The Acid Crack features powerful thin fingerlocks to a core intensive face climbing section once the crack pinches down to tips. I worked the line twice on top rope and was able to figure out all but once section. This climb is steep and my style and I look forward to going back to it once I get a bit stronger.

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Lizzy on Gunsmoke

Over Thanksgiving break Lizzy and I went out to Indian Creek with a bunch friends. We meet up with people from all over and had a blast with amazing weather. Lizzy just finished her post and  I will be writing about our trip soon too, since we both climbed exceptionally well. Definitely check out some of our photos here or even better ones from our friend Andre.

One highlight of the trip for me was seeing Matt Segal and Jason Kruk working on a new route at Battle of the Bugle. On our last day while driving past Battle of the Bulge we saw a few camera men above the project. We pulled over and saw Matt climb the last 15 feet or so and clip the chains for the first ascent. It was awesome to watch these guys work on this climb over the many days we were at the Battle of the Bulge. This new age line uses tricky face sequence to connect thin cracks with infrequent gear.

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Like A Prayer by Renan Ozturk

On a final note, we have added a few new pages to DreamInVertical. First came our Gear Review section to allow people to more easily find our Sweet Gear reviews. As well the new Multi-Pitch Route Beta page has links to topos and trip reports from many of the classic multipitch and alpine routes we have done. This page is a work in progress so feel free to leave comments if there is something missing or some additional beta that could be added to future trip reports.

Hope everyone has a wonderful holiday season,

Luke

After testing out the Acrteryx R320 I was interested in trying out the competition. Right now I am testing the Black Diamond Chaos with the Kinetic Core Construction. So far I’ve mainly been cragging but it went up the Freeblast twice back in October. After a bunch more pitches I will be doing a full review with a comparison against the R320.

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The BD Chaos fully loaded on Hidden Arch in Joshua Tree

I just bought a pair of La Sportiva Speedsters so I will be contributing to Lizzy’s review so we can get a dual perspective on this new soft soled slipper. Expect this in the next two months after Lizzy and I have a chance to go bouldering on real rock.

Lizzy and I have been climbing multipitches for a while and have found that in some situations hauling the pack can be ideal for the follower. After putting holes in many of our packs we have recently switched to using the Metolius Haul Packs when we want to haul.

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A mess of gear and the yellow Metolius Shield Haul Pack

On the Original Route on Rainbow Wall I hauled a Zodiac pack, 15L, and on El Captain we used the Shield, 31 L, as a sub bag. These bags still look great after 10 and 22 pitches of hauling respectively. After a few more trips I plan on publishing a review and a few hauling tips.

Also I  think it would be nice to provided a summary of the summit/ follower packs that Lizzy and I have used. My current favorite is the Black Diamond RPM which is a bit on the large size (26L) but compacts easily and holds weight really well.

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Walking across the Mammoth Terraces on El Captain with the Black Diamond RPM pack.

After much searching and frustration with outdoor clothing companies, Lizzy has finally found a pair of non-cotton, non-yoga-style climbing pants that fit her in addition to providing sun and bug protection. After a few months of testing for durability Lizzy will be writing a review of the Columbia Womens’ Trekster pants. Also, Lizzy has been using the new Black Diamond Stone gloves and should have a review of them out shortly.

I have a pair of the Black Diamond N-Force Ascenders and will be doing a comparison with the Petzl Ascension.  After using the BD ascenders 4 days straight on Freerider I have a good idea about what I like and what doesn’t work.


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N-Force in hand, ready for El Captain!

For other Sweet Gear reviews make sure to check out the Gear Reviews page.

Cheers,

Luke

This last Sunday I participated in the Luna Bar Duathlon at the Luna Bar All Women’s Duathlon at Rancho Seco Park, which is in rolling hills south of Sacramento near some vineyards and a nuclear power plant (I’d never been this close to one!!). I had decided to do this event because it was going to be 2 days after I moved and I figured I could use both motivation to unpack stuff from my car and a break from putting stuff away. Also, I was interested in getting into triathlons and thought this would be a good intro because I wouldn’t have to deal with the swim – bike transition, which seemed complicated, or struggle to train for swimming, since I technically didn’t have access to the Caltech gym/pool any more after graduating (what do girls do with your hair? Do you just redo it after taking off swim cap? Braids?)

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Bike and bag of gear all ready to go the night before

I trained for this more than any recent event, mostly because I knew my legs needed to be in shape for the biking and running. The Rose Bowl was perfect for this – mostly flat with some very gentle hills and a 3.15mi loop. I would do several laps for a bike workout or 1-2 laps for a run workout. I also did a couple of practice duathlons – transitioning at the car.

So I felt pretty prepared. I packed up all my gear the night before and got up at 5am the morning of to drive to Rancho Seco Park so I would have plenty of time to park, check in, and prepare my transition area. I’d never done something like this before, so I checked out how other ladies were setting their stuff up, putting the bike on the rack by the seat and organizing their various shoes, clothing, and towels (for triathletes) on the ground next to the bike.

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My bike in the transition area

It was so cool being at an event that was just for female athletes. There were 4 events – Super Sprint Duathlon and Triathlon and Luna Bar Duathlon and Triathlon, so there was an event for everyone, from the not-so-in shape to the serious triathletes. Throughout the day, everyone was really supportive of each other and sports-woman-ship was everywhere. Plus, I didn’t often see this many women in my years at Caltech (only at frisbee tournaments, where the camaraderie is not so good…) Yes, boys, it was nice for all of you to be on the sidelines just cheering us on.

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Looking at all the ladies setting up in the transition area.

My race was a 2 mile run, followed by a 20 mile bike ride and a 4 mile run. These last 2 legs were shared with the triathletes, who started in waves on a .5 mile lake swim. When we started the first run, we all joked that we would rather be jumping in the lake – the run course was in the sun and it was already getting hot. I’d drank about 2 Liters of water since waking up, though, so I think I started out pretty well hydrated. I focused on pacing myself on the first run – I have a tendency to go out WAY too fast and tire myself out early and felt good and relaxed on the first run, doing 8-minute miles, faster than I’d expected. My first transition went well and I felt fast and strong going out on the bike course, even though I was getting passed by triathletes who’d clearly trained more than me (my cycle speed is currently only about 15 mi/hr, whereas I imagine the best athletes were probably around 20mi/hr). I had taken two shot bloks before starting the race and took the remaining 4 shot bloks at intervals throughout the bike ride (it’s way easier to do bloks/gu while cycling than while running) and trying to stay hydrated.

The bike ride was an out-and-back course and it seemed there was a little more uphill on the way back, plus a headwind, so I didn’t go quite as fast and my legs started to get tired, but I kept going. I only had one almost-bad incident when some bitchy lady honked at us from behind (I guess she was impatient to pass?) and I jumped, accidentally nudging my front wheel onto the soft shoulder. Miraculously, though, I got back on the road almost immediately and hadn’t been at one of the spots where the pavement dropped off several inches to the shoulder. A passing woman congratulated me for not crashing and flipped off the rude driver for me.

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My number – 76

The final run was hard for me, not only because it was longer than the first run, but because my legs were really tired and my stomach was feeling really awful, as it often does on races. Normally, 4 miles wouldn’t be too bad of a run for me, but the heat and tiredness made it a big challenge. I focused on my breathing, and on taking advantage of the downhill sections (which not a lot of people seemed to do). I had a cup of electrolyte and a cup of water at every aid station (every mile, which was great!), using most of the water to pour on my head to keep cool.

I ended up finishing in 2:24:50. I’d not had a good idea of how long this should have taken me, but I expected to take over 2 hours and, based on the return part of the bike course and the second run course, I was pleasantly surprised by this not-too-terribly awful finish time (the winning time was 1:57:00, the last finisher was 2:54:54). I was 8th out of 22 athletes in the Duathlon and 1st (out of one athlete, but hey, I was competing just against myself anyways) in the 20-29 age group.

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My 1st place plaque and free box of Luna Bars!

Overall, this event was a great experience! Everyone was really friendly and supportive. It made me really excited to get into triathlons next season because I still don’t really love running, but I enjoy biking and swimming. This was a lot more fun than the long trail race I did in May, even though I covered more distance, because I got to ride my bike! In the meantime, I’m hoping to get my cycling speed up, get back into swimming, and maybe compete in some shorter trail races (I’ve always been better at running less far…) so I can work on my speed. If I’m not out in the field for this event next year, I definitely want to do it again! Check out this page for info about the race this year.

Do any of you blog readers do triathlons? Any training tips?

-Lizzy

2009 has been full of new gear at Dream in Vertical and we will be publishing  some of the reviews that Lizzy mentioned earlier in the year.  As well we just got two of the latest and greatest shoes from La Sportiva thanks to Backbone Media and Sara over at RockClimberGirl.

I am excited to try out TC Pro which seems perfectly suited for some of the harder multipitches I plan on climbing  later in the year.

The new Sportiva TC Pro designed by Tommy Caldwell featuring Vibram XS Edge rubber.

Lizzy will be testing out the Speedster and as a stiff shoe lover will provided a chance to try out the more sensitive end of the climbing shoe range.

The super sensative Speedster with the new 3mm Vibram XS Grip 2

Also after wearing the Arc’teryx R320 for many pitches from Zion, to Smith Rock and the Sierra I feel ready for a review.

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Wearing the R320 on a sub 20 hour C2C ascent of DarkStar

Also I will be doing a 1 year review of the Black Diamond Oz, C3 and the Petzl Reverso3.

This should add a bit more info to my previous post:

Sweet Gear Generation3: The Reverso, The OZ, and C3′s

Also be sure to check out some of our other Sweet Gear reviews:

Approach Shoe Reviews by Lizzy.

A General Rope Review by Luke

La Sportiva Miura VS by Lizzy

Patagonia DAS Parka by Lizzy

Patagonia R1 Flash Pullover by Lizzy

Patagonia Plush Pants by Lizzy

Enjoy!

- Luke

Back in June Sara over at RockClimberGirl.com put Lizzy and I in touch with Jon and Kevin at ClimbFind.We were able to entertain them during one of their road trip stops at Smith Rock.

Climb Find is going live TODAY with a new feature of their site, a Climbing Feed, that will bring climbs a new way to connect with people and display local news/updates. So the next time you need a climbing partner go to their site http://www.ClimbFind.com and put in a request!

Lizzy and I have been a bit low key the last few weekends but have been working on some longer post examining our past climbing histories. Since we both started climbing before we met it is interesting to see how our partnership has helped us develope new skills.

Hope everyone has a good weekend! If you haven’t seen this video from Sonnie Trotter you should check it out. Sick crack climbing!!

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 - Luke

So, before going to Smith Rock, I posted a ticklist of the routes I wanted to do. I ended up doing a lot of them, plus plenty not on the list. So here’s everything I lead, in order of increasing grade (R=redpoint, O=onsight, F=flash; sport routes in italics, trad routes in bold):

Hop on Pop, 5.8 (R) – always a classic

5 Gallon Buckets, 5.8 (R) – another classic

Light on the Path, 5.9 (R) – ditto. watch out for the bird crap, though, in one of the upper huecos (gross!)

9 Gallon Buckets, 5.9 (O) – only 5.9 to the first anchor

Helium Woman, 5.9 (F) – this route is more fun than the Watts guidebook gives it credit for

Moonshine Dihedral, 5.9 (R) – although I’d already onsighted this one many years ago

Captain Xenolith, 5.10a (F) – not quite as fun as its neighbor, Helium Woman

Cosmic, 5.10a (F) – the easiest knob route at Mesa Verde, not quite as fun as the harder classics

Cruel Sister, 5.10a (O) – gosh, this got pretty wide for my little hands at the top, bring a #4 camalot (or two!)

Chicken McNuggets, 5.10b (R) – the start is deceptively tricky

Wedding Day, 5.10b (O) – this route is not very fun

Screaming Yellow Zonkers, 5.10b (F) – a classic! love the knobs!

Badfinger, 5.10b (R) – fun!

Rim Job, 5.10b (O) – this one is very cool, despite looking intimidating-ly thin

Wildfire, 5.10b (O) – super cruiser above the initial tight corner

Cornercopia, 5.10b (R) – the last 4 are all on the Wildfire Wall – what a mecca for 5.10 and 5.11 trad climbs!

Barbecue the Pope, 5.10b (R) – maybe not the best route to climb in the sun (oops)

On the Road, 5.11a (R) – this route is incredible! don’t miss it! maybe my pick for the best 5.11 at Smith…

A Woman in the Meadow, 5.11a (F) – pumpy!

Pure Palm, 5.11a (R) – by far the hardest 11a I did this trip…

Vomit Launch, 5.11b (R) – this may be the best (sport) 5.11 at Smith

Moondance, 5.11b/c (R) – this was good training for Pure Palm…

Sunshine Dihedral, 5.11d (O) – my crowning achievement :)

Still many projects to get back on, but consider this a list of recommended routes at Smith (except maybe for Wedding Day, which wasn’t that awesome). Hang tight for some blogs from Luke (right now I have the advantage since I’m DONE WITH SCHOOL WOOO).

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