To start off the new year I wanted to share some photos from our very fun 2011. I’ll be writing a reflective post but don’t hold your breath. Enjoy the pictures!

- Luke

 

January – Sport Climbing

January causes chilly belayer syndrome

 

Wet weekends are good for craft projects

February – Skiing

Epic snowstorm en route to skiing.

 

Great ski conditions at Kirkwood

 

March – Indian Creek

A happy Lizzy after sending Sacred Cow.

 

Luke onsights Extra Lean

April – Vegas vacation and the first Yosemite Tweetup!

Count the climbers. There are four in this photo!

 

At Upper Yosemite Falls for the Yosemite Tweetup

 

May – Yosemite Storms and Sending

A bear patrols the El Cap bridge

 

Looking up at Tales of Power.

 

June – Wedding and a Honeymoon

We tied the Knot!!

Honeymooning in Canada

July – South Africa and the Steck-Salathe

Lizzy in South Africa doing geology field work

 

Summit Glory after the Steck-Salathe! (I'm a little bit excited...)

 

August – Hulk-O-Rama

Luke enjoys live climber "TV" on the Hulk.

Lost in the Sun!

 

September and October – Running and Climbing in Yosemite

El Cap (look how little the East Buttress is!) from Taft Point.

 

Amazing views from Clouds Rest

 

Keith leads the Harding Slot

 

November – Bishop bouldering

 

A snowy drive to the east side.

 

Lizzy works out a technical sequence.

 

Luke gets some altitude at the Happy Boulders

December – Running

Lizzy during the TNF Challenge Half Marathon

 

Looking for the trail somewhere near Cathedral Pass

I’m still continuing my self-imposed vacation from climbing. For me, the best way to deal with burnout has always to find something else that makes me excited and throw myself at it. Climbing is great and all, but honestly, running is a way better companion for a mentally exhausting time like this quarter. There’s minimal planning, you can think as much (or as little) as you want, there’s little to no pressure compared to climbing, and the time commitment is generally less and more flexible.

Plus, it’s AWESOME. I’ve been climbing so long now that it’s often hard to recapture the joy and excitement of the beginner, whereas I’m just beginning to realize the fun potential of long trail runs: staring at maps, mentally plotting routes, thinking about super long runs (even though I still wouldn’t consider a road marathon – way too much pavement pounding for me).

I can't get over the incredible view from Cloud's Rest.

So, anyways, here are some of the adventures I’ve been up to:

I’ve already written about running from Tuolumne to Yosemite with SK. It was amazing and I think it’s safe to say I got bitten by the running bug pretty hard after that.

I decided to run the Nike Women’s Half Marathon in San Francisco again this year (last year’s race report). Although I was more overwhelmed (in a negative way) by the commercialization and disorganization of the race this year and the roads were hard on my trail-trained legs, I had a great time and felt way more comfortable with the distance than last year. I could definitely tell that I hadn’t been training speed much, though, as although I had good endurance, I couldn’t get the speed out of my legs that they had last year. But this leaves me plenty of time to work on this before TNF EC 13.1 in early December, when I am hoping for a much more substantial PR (last year).

Finishing NWM 13.1 2011.

Tapering for and running NWM left me itching for more trails, so I just took the week off and hopped right back on the wagon for a ~14 mile run in Yosemite with SK last weekend. We ran from Yosemite Lodge, across Swinging Bridge, and down Valley to the 4 Mile Trail, which is actually ~4.8 miles up, up, and up to Glacier Point (~3000ft of relief above the Valley floor). I tried to run as much as I could, but my legs announced they were still tired from NWM, so I ended up power hiking a lot of the hill.

There turned out to be no water at Glacier Point like we’d thought, but fortunately we had brought just enough to be ok. We took some pictures and enjoyed the scenery while taking in some food.

Yosemite Falls from the 4 Mile Trail

Sentinel Rock, the Cathedrals, and El Cap from the 4 Mile Trail

We descended down the Panorama Trail, which was nice, but nowhere near as stunningly incredibly as the Cloud’s Rest trail (I’m super spoiled now), then climbed back up above the Panorama Cliff before descending to Nevada Fall and taking the JMT down to Happy Isles (which felt way better than on our previous run, probably due to the very different uphill:downhill running ratio). It was a very nice run, and it feels great for 14 miles to not feel that long.

Half Dome and Tenaya Canyon from Glacier Point.

Oh, hello Liberty Cap! Descending down to the JMT on the Panorama Trail.

Looking up at Half Dome on our recovery walk to Mirror Lake on Sunday.

This weekend might be my last reasonable chance for a long Yosemite run this year – once it snows in the high country, it won’t be so smart to be running up there. So I’m planning on running the Pohono Trail, which runs along the south rim of the Valley from Wawona Tunnel to Glacier Point, then descending the 4 Mile Trail. I’ve seen some hikers’ photos from this trail, and it looks like the views will be awesome!

But there’s so much more potential! If I’m still this psyched on running next summer, it would be sweet to do a much longer Tuolumne to Yosemite route, or run from the Yosemite Creek Trailhead to Upper Yosemite Falls to North Dome (and then either down to the Valley or back to Tioga Rd). And those are just runs within YNP, there’s the whole Sierra to explore! I haven’t been so excited about making crazy outside plans in a while, so I know I’m doing something right.

Here’s the Garmin data from last weekend’s run (I think Garmin overestimated the elevation gain/loss by a lot, FYI):

Lizzy

Over the past five years I’ve spent countless days bouldering around Bishop. An easy drive from southern California and warm winter temps makes this this place a bouldering mecca. I expect I’ve spent more days wrestling these pebbles than anywhere else in the world.

As the popularity of bouldering has increased so has the traffic to Bishop and the Buttermilks. Currently the US Forest Service is planning on installing a pit toilet in the Buttermilks. This is a good thing since human waste has become a problem in recent years.

Unfortunately one of the potential locations is amongst the boulders which would not only be an eye-sore but smell bad,  encourage illegal camping and potentially create other problems.

Luke enjoys the scenery while crimping hard.

Take a moment and read more about the situation on Will’s Bishop Blog. Having run into Wills a few times over the years I can assure you that he has the best interest of the area in mind not only as the guidebook author but as a dedicated local and passionate climber.

Lizzy enjoyes bouldering amonghts the peaks.

 

Take ACTION:

Head on over to the Access Fund to send a email to United States Forest Service so that the new toilet gets put in best place with the least visual impact!

Doing a small thing now will keep this area beautiful and clean for years to come!

Someone has to look out for the Buttermilks!

- Luke

Belmot stands guard over the Buttermilks

It’s been pretty quiet here at Dream in Vertical recently, but for good reason – check it out:

Photography by Mark Gsellman

Thank you to all our family and friends who have given us their love and support, especially in the crazy last year of planning!

Lizzy + Luke

P.S. More rock climbing coming soon…

You know those days when everything just clicks into place? I’ve been having more of those recently

I first saw Tales of Power in the extras on the Sharp End – Madeleine Sorkin and Kate Rutherford were climbing a steep, beautiful thin hands splitter in Yosemite. This is the kind of line I just can’t ignore. My first two days on the route (1 in February, 1 in April) weren’t too successful. Of course, it wasn’t the incredible splitter that was shutting me down. It was the initial flare and the final squeeze chimney. I was facing both mental and physical barriers: fear, intimidation, squeeze chimney technique, wet and slimy rock… a couple weeks ago I wasn’t sure I was even going to go back to the route again this year.

Looking up at Tales of Power.

But things change quickly. This last weekend, after warming up by flailing on Generator Crack and figuring out some better beta for my crux (getting into the squeeze from the hand crack, beta help from Luke and the video of Kate Rutherford), we rappelled down to the base of Tales of Power. I racked up, tied in, and sent my first Yosemite 5.12. At the beginning of the day, my goal was to work on the moves. At the end of the day, I needed to find a new project.

Redpointing Tales of Power is a pretty big deal for me. Not just the grade of the route (only my 4th 5.12), but also the steepness and exposure, and the wide cracks. There were a lot of things about the experience that really intimidated me. But I managed to push past my uncomfortable feelings, and I’m very glad I did. I hope that I’ll remember this experience for a long time to come, that by putting myself (way) outside my comfort zone, I can accomplish things I hadn’t even realized I was capable of.

Lizzy

The power of Twitter always amazes me. People from all over California and the USA came to Yosemite this past weekend to climb as part of the 1st Annual Yosemite Tweetup. We were not graced with the typical California sun, but it didn’t matter. Our community bonded over the campfire and through the climbs we were able to do. It was great to meet new people and share the beauty of Yosemite. Hurray for #yostweetup!

Enjoy the photos! Thanks again for visiting!

-Luke

Ryan (@nwskiclimb) leads the 3rd pitch of Nutcracker

Eileen (@rockgrrl) finishes the 2nd pitch of Nutcracker

Ryan climbs the final pitch to Nutcracker as the storm grows.

Lizzy on top after climbing After Seven

Lizzy at the upper Yosemite Falls overlook.

Happy hikers on a rainy day in Yosemite

The Fundraiser was a success. A total of $12,656 was raised and $10,000 was matched by Planet Granite. Thanks to those who donated and those that came to the slideshow/auction!

Access for climbing is one of the things that I used to take for granted. I naively thought that access was not my problem and I didn’t need to worry where I would climb.  Then I started seeing crags close at the Red River Gorge, around San Diego, and other places in the country.

At the same time, many crags, like Index in Washington, were saved as result of climber and Access Fund intervention. I learned that fund-raising is essential for keeping crags open and giving future generations the opportunities to climb in many spectacular places.

When I first heard from Tom Addison that he was working with the Access Fund to buy an easement to the Jailhouse I was very excited. This would insure climbing for the next century at a vital crag not too far away from the Bay Area. The obvious hurdle would be the money needed to buy the land for a new road and parking lot.

The Jailhouse contains a large concentration of steep and difficult routes. Called by many “the Rifle of California”, you will see climbers knee-barring their way to success in this giant cave. Since the Jailhouse sits on private land, the first rule of Jailhouse has always been not to talk about Jailhouse.  With authorized access I expect more people will visit the crag especially since the Jailhouse functions as a wet weather and winter crag providing off-season entertainment when Yosemite is too wet or cold.

Whether or not you live in California, supporting access is a big part of being a climber. Even $5 makes a difference!

I plan on taking all funds that I can collect to the Planet Granite fund-raising event on February 9th. By donating via my PayPal fundraiser widget you guarantee that all funds will be DOUBLED!! Thanks again to Planet Granite for offering to match donations! My personal goal is to raise $2500 dollars for the Jailhouse.

The Access Fund progress can be seen below on the right.  We can do this!

SUCCESS!! All funds were raised for the Jailhouse! Thanks to everyone who donated through DreamInVertical! Adam K, Torger J, David S, Brian L, Kenneth V, Matthew R, Brian R, Lizzy T, and Jeffery G.

If you would rather not donate through me then please donate directly to the Access Fund between Febuary 1st and 15th!

Thanks again! If you have a blog I would appreciate it if you could link to this post or even embed my donation gadget.

Your support is much appreciated!

- Luke

Alright folks, if you really come here to read only about climbing, you’ll have to wait a little longer (we’re definitely going on a New Year’s trip, so you have that to look forward to). December is a busy, cold, and rainy month, which in many ways makes it better suited to other outdoor activities, like running (and skiing, hopefully?).

I know I’ve really enjoyed doing a race almost every month (not November, due to school, travel, and left IT band woes) since May. It does mean a weekend dedicated to something that isn’t rock climbing, but I really enjoy mixing it up. It helps to stay active and I enjoy having lots of opportunities to develop the perfect pre-race routine. (Banana, water, 2-3 shot bloks, extensive stretching routine to try to warm up / stretch the IT band as much as possible).

This weekend, Luke and I are going to be competing at  The North Face Endurance Challenge up north in the Marin Headlands area, just across the Golden Gate Bridge from San Francisco. Julie and Josh are even coming up from LA for the weekend, which is exciting because we haven’t seen them in a long time.

Luke checking his pace during the SF Marathon in July.

A huge number of  cool awesome amazing running people (edit: here’s some info on the awesome women runners, too) will be competing in the 50 mile race on Saturday, but we’re taking on slightly shorter endurance challenges. Luke and Julie are running the 50k race on Saturday (with Josh and me as support crew) and I’ll be running the Half Marathon on Sunday. This will be Luke’s first ultra-marathon, and my 2nd half marathon (Nike Women’s Half in Oct. was my first official half).

With the knee issues I’ve been having for the past 1.5 months, I’m trying not to have unreasonable expectations for myself – I want to push myself, enjoy the scenery, enjoy being part of a cool event like this (the 50mi is actually a pretty big deal for the ultra-runners), practice effectively managing my IT band on hills, not starting the race at 5k pace (which my legs like to try to do when I start out running, rather than swimming + cycling), etc.

Anyways, it should be a really great weekend (hopefully not too wet)! We’ll be heading into the city for packet pickup on Thursday. I may be kind of busy taking care of Luke and Julie during their race on Saturday, but I’ll have my phone handy (is there even 3G up there?) to tweet about any race excitement.

Anyone else planning on any last races of 2010? (I’m also doing the 12ks of Christmas in Kirkland (WA) on Dec. 19th). Climbing? Skiing? (Kirkwood is OPEN!!! YAY!!!)

Lizzy

I have been feeling recently that words and stills couldn’t quite adequately describe the experience of doing a triathlon, so for the Luna Bar Triathlon this past weekend, I decided to make a video! This was my longest triathlon yet: 0.5mi swim, 20mi cycle, 4mi run. I finished in 2:03:51, for 4th place in my age group (out of 16) and 55th overall (out of 298). This was only my 3rd tri, so I’m still kind of a newbie when it comes to training, and I always learn something. This time I learned that I needed to actually go on 20mi bike rides to train (rather than 13mi bike rides)…

So without further ado, check out the video:

Lizzy

You may remember that it was not that long ago when I blogged about my first triathlon, the Silicon Valley Sprint Triathlon on June 12th. Well, it was so awesome that I decided to do some more! I knew right away that I wanted to return to the Luna Bar Women’s Triathlon Festival, where I got my first taste of multisport in the duathlon last August. But it was a long time until the end of August, so I decided to do another event in between. The TBF Tri-for-Fun2 was perfect because it is held at the same park by the same race organizers as the Luna Bar Tri, and the courses are very similar (the Luna Bar cycle and run courses are a little bit longer).

Lizzy tries to get rid of some nerves

This triathlon was held at Rancho Seco Park, which is out east near Sacramento. It’s not that far away, but it is far enough that we had to leave at 4:30am to get there in time to stake out a good spot in transition, check in, warm up, and deal with pre-race nerves.

Where's Lizzy?

I was a little nervous for the swim course because it was significantly longer than my previous tri (800m vs. 500m) and the air was a little chillier. However, the water was surprisingly warm and much less murky than at Lake Almaden. As a result, I was able to follow a couple swimmers in front of me (letting them break their stroke to check our direction instead of having to do it so many times myself). I think I ended up averaging a little over 2:00 per 100m, which is generally what I’ve been doing in the pool.

Women's heat one is off!

I think my T1 was a little faster than before – the short run from the swim exit to transition was grassy and allowed me to get most of the sand off my feet before I got to my towel. I’m still not super fast at jumping on my bike, but I don’t think I’m really competitive enough yet for those couple of seconds to make a significant difference for me. The bike course, an out-and-back course on a relatively flat road with gentle rolling hills, was also significantly longer than that on my first tri (16mi vs. 8.8mi), but I had raced on the course before (the Luna Bar Tri/Du does the same out-and-back, except with the turnaround another 2 miles out), so I knew what to expect. Not surprisingly, I was much faster on my tri bike than on my normal road bike that I used on the duathlon. The course is flat enough that I was able to stay in aero position almost the entire time, in addition to staying on my big front gear for maximum efficiency. My top speed was about 25mph, and my average speed was around 19mph. I think I averaged about 14mph on my road bike on the same course (well, the same course +4 more miles and maybe in a little worse shape).

Lizzy works to minimize her T1 by running out of the water!

My T2 also went better than my first triathlon. My feet were drier (I’d been on the bike for about 50 minutes this time) and I did a much better job of putting my socks on. My legs definitely felt much more tired starting out the run, but I tried to stay in a positive mental state, focusing on how light I felt and how warm my muscles were, rather than how tired my legs were feeling. I got a little psyched out on the run, since I expected the aid station to be at the turnaround (1.5mi) and it was actually at ~1mi, so I got all excited to be halfway done, only to realize that I still had a ways to go before halfway. With some effort, though, I was able to stay positive and keep pushing. It didn’t hurt that I was passing tons of people and could tell that there weren’t that many women ahead of me (i.e. I was doing well in my age group).

On the bike leaving the transition.

Since my legs were quite warm (read: tired) by the final stretch, I was able to do an even better sprint to the finish than my first triathlon. (I know this is counter-intuitive, but I have a major tendency to pull my quads when I really sprint hard, so I only really go full-throttle when I know my quads are happy.)

Lizzy staying in aero position as she finishes the bike.

Although I was definitely more physically tired than my first tri, I still felt good after finishing and relaxed in the shade with Luke to wait for the awards ceremony. They were giving awards 5 deep in 5-year age groups (mine is women 20-24) and I was almost certain I’d done well enough to get an award. It actually turned out that I won my age group, which I think is my best race result ever (I won my age group at the Luna Bar Duathlon, but I was the only one in my age group, so there wasn’t much competition).

Lizzy in first for women 20-24 with the other top finishers.

So my second triathlon was just as awesome as my first! I’m pretty excited for the Luna Bar Tri at the end of August (I’ll have some work to regain some fitness after my 3 weeks doing geology in South Africa, but that’s ok). It continues to impress me that, although I used to consider myself a pretty unathletic person, I’m now a successful triathlete! I’m even entertaining wild and crazy thoughts of doing a Half Ironman at some point…

Lizzy

Back in August 2009 I did something new. It was the Luna Bar Duathlon, part of the Luna Bar Women’s Triathlon Festival. A duathlon is like a triathlon (swim, bike, run), except you run the first leg (run, bike, run). I hadn’t wanted to do the triathlon because I didn’t have consistent access to a pool to train for the swim, but when I was running the first 2-mile run leg on a hot, dusty trail… I thought that it might make a whole lot more sense to swim, too.

After the duathlon, I decided I wanted to try a triathlon. I could use more aerobic fitness and having a goal (a race) to train for helps motivate me. It was a long road. My first year at Stanford was a busy one, plus finding my awesome climbing partner, Sarah Kate, made me really psyched to climb. I had an awesome fall (of climbing), culminating in a fantastic trip to Indian Creek. But once 2010 started, I knew I needed to make it happen.

I signed up for the Silicon Valley Sprint Triathlon. I could’ve trained more, but I didn’t. There’s still school and climbing and personal time and I haven’t figured out how to schedule everything appropriately yet. I’m working on it. But I did train, especially running, which is my weakest leg.

On June 12th, it was go time. My stomach was full of nervous butterflies. I had a banana for breakfast (plus 2 shot bloks right before the start and lots of water) while we drove down to Lake Almaden in San Jose. I checked in and Luke helped me set up in the transition area. I’ve gotten a lot of new triathlon toys since my duathlon, including a tri suit, my sweet tri bike (thanks Luke, Mom, and Dad for helping out with that!), tri bike shoes (easy to put on + designed to wear sock-less), an aero helmet, and a racebelt (you have to wear your number on the run, so it’s nice to just clip it on without having to wear it the whole race or put on an extra shirt with the number pinned to it). I’m happy to say all my gear was awesome, but then I’m getting ahead of myself.

My transition all set up, including my aero helmet, tri bike shoes, and neon green race belt.

The men started in the first 4 waves, separated by age and road vs. mountain bike race. I waited around on the beach and tested out the water waiting for my wave (road bike women 29 and under), the first of the 4 women’s waves. A lot of people were wearing wetsuits, which worried me, but the water was actually a perfect temperature for swimming (if it isn’t somewhat cold when you first get in, you’ll overheat once you start moving). The shore of the lake dropped off surprisingly quickly, so when I paddled out to the start line with my wave, we were all treading water.

Waiting in the shade before my wave starts.

We started and there was a lot of splashing and jostling. Although the lake water felt nice, it was quite murky (I could barely see my hand when it was all the way extended at the end of my stroke). I hadn’t expected this (I mostly swim in a pool), so it took a while to adjust to how often to pop my head up and check my orientation with the next cone. I did it too much at first, but after a while I was able to do it less often as I started to trust myself to swim in a straight line. I felt like I wasn’t doing too great, although it turns out I was only about 10th in my wave (you don’t notice how many people are behind you, only in front). I made the two turns of the swim and jogged into the transition zone (passing my first dude, who was walking to the transition zone).

My wave (the neon pink swim caps) starts!

At my transition, I wiped some of the sand off my feet before sticking them in my bike shoes and grabbing my helmet. I jogged out of transition with my bike. I guess I passed a couple people who’d worn wetsuits (it takes a non-trivial amount of time to take them off). I wasn’t super fast getting on my bike, which is clearly something I need to practice. I got out onto the bike course and relaxed into a rhythm. We’d ridden the bike course before, so I knew what to expect – mostly flat with one hill at mile 3. I survived the hill, even passing a bunch of people (many were walking their bikes), which was impressive because my tri bike is not geared for hills, whereas a bunch of people had mountain bikes, which definitely are geared for hills. I was a little less comfortable on the downhill and some of the turns on the course than I’d like to have been, so I did get passed by a couple women, although I continued to pass dudes, which continued to be awesome.

Starting out the bike leg. I heart my awesome Quintana Roo Lucero!

At my bike transition, I was slowed down a little by the fact that my feet were still a little wet (I’d expected them to dry out more, but the bike ride was pretty short), so it took me a couple extra seconds to get my socks on. But I saved some time by putting on my race belt (with race number), headband, and sunglasses as I was running out of transition. I managed my initial adrenaline surge on the run well, remembering to save energy rather than going out too fast – I did still have a 5k to run. I continued to pass people on the run (I think I only got passed once or twice myself), which was great motivation to focus on the person in front of me, run them down, then move on to the next person. It was not too hot yet, so I didn’t stop at most of the aid stations.

Heading out of transition for the run!

I was still feeling good by the end of the run and starting building my pace in the last 1/2 mile or so and sprinted the last 200m. I love being able to really have a strong kick at the finish and I passed another woman in the last 100m (although I don’t think she was in my age group). I felt awesome when I finished, although I insisted on retreating to the shade before I’d talk to Luke (it was hot). We proceeded to wait around and eat free burrito and pizza to pass time until the awards ceremony. I ended up getting 3rd in my age group (20-24-year-old women) with a time of 1:13:17 for the 500m swim, 8.8mi cycle, and 3.3mi run, which I was very happy with. I also placed 3rd in my age group for each individual leg, so I was satisfied with that too. I did train, but not that much, so I could definitely do better if I train more (I’m in the process of trying that now).

Finishing strong! I just passed that girl behind me :D

Although the rest of the event was great, the post-race organization was pretty poor. I think we waited 2 hours from when I finished until the awards ceremony started (it was over an hour after they’d promised it would be). Then when I got up there it took them about 10 minutes to find my prize bag. But, on the bright side, my prize bag was awesome and included goggles, an insulated swim cap, and compression socks. Thanks!!!

So I learned that triathlons are awesome and fun, especially when they are short (so I don’t get that tired) and I am excited to do more in the coming months. I also love the feeling of passing dudes who started ahead of me :D   And finally, I’ve been learning recently that it’s good to just do what I’m psyched on at the time, and right now that’s triathlon! I’m planning on doing a couple more in the next few months (including the triathlon at the Luna Bar Women’s Triathlon Festival in August).

Are you psyched on triathlons? If you’re a woman and interested in triathlons, I totally recommend trying the Luna Bar Festival! The atmosphere is great and there are Super-Sprint tri’s and du’s, along with a longer sprint distance race! Let me know if you’ll be there and we can share our pre-race nerves and post-race exhaustion!

Lizzy

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