Thanksgiving in Bishop

It was dark out but the moon was glinting off the hood. A fully loaded truck rolled easily down the 395. The chatter of my conversation was not enough to keep the attention of my co-pilot. Some how he muttered answers to my questions and then fell back asleep. I kept on rambling. The graveyard [...]

Squamish in Photos!

Lizzy covered most of the details of our recent trip to Squamish in an earlier post. I wanted to add some photos since Lizzy was awesome and took a lot of good shots! During our trip to Squamish I was still a bit tired from my trip up Half Dome, the weekend before, but was [...]

Squamish Is... Unpredictable (But Awesome Nonetheless)

First of all, if you don’t recognize the “Squamish is…” reference, then watch this classic Timmy O’Neill video. Or if it’s been too long since you last watched it, watch it again: Although I spent my whole life before college in the Pacific Northwest, including my formative climbing years when I found my love of [...]

A Sending Weekend in Bishop

Bishop embodies many things that I struggle with – sharp holds, complex sequences, temperature-dependent climbs. I have to temper my enthusiasm and manage my skin so it is strong enough to withstand great pressure and doesn’t wear out.  There is a big variation in climbing style between the Buttermilk Country and the Volcanic Tablelands.  The [...]

Sweet Gear Review: La Sportiva Speedsters

I don’t really consider myself to be a boulderer. Sure, I boulder occasionally, especially during the winter when weather is unpredictable, but at heart I really love to climb cracks. However, there’s a limit to how much better one can get at crack climbing without cross-training. The winter is a great time to cross train, [...]

Bouldering at Joe's Valley - A Photo Recap

A bunch of talk of bouldering has gotten me psyched for the upcoming Bishop season. I’ve most likely only bouldered less than five days outside in the last six months. The last serious trip was to Joe’s Valley with a bunch of Bucknell Alumni back in April of 2009. Since we had so many people [...]

Summer Catchup: Pine Mountain Pulldown and Mt. Woodson

This summer was jam packed with  fun climbing including many trips to the Sierra. These long days on the mountain stand at vast contrast to some of  the more chill weekends that are swept up in the fray. I wanted to share a few photos that I didn’t get to post back in August and [...]

Joe's Valley - Wills a Fire Videos

Josh on Lumberjack Low After watching a video Jamie Emerson posted I was reminded that I had some how failed to post the above picture of Josh trying the same problem. I love this shot and it really shows the crazy sandstone texture of Joe’s Valley. Luke sets up the drop knee with his eye [...]

Joe's Valley - Day Three at the Left Fork

We had a bit of rain on Friday night that sent everyone to be early and luckily we awoke to clear skies in the morning. It had not rained much during the night and we hoped to get some climbing in. Our inital plan was to drive to Ibex if we had woken up to [...]

Joe's Valley - Day Two at New Joe's

We decided on New Joe’s for day two and slowly made our way out to this sector.  Everyone was weary from all the traveling on Wednesday and the ton of climbing we did on the day before. When we arrived at the dirt road at the stated mileage we were greeted by a large locked gate. The [...]

Joe's Valley - Day One at the Right Fork

Joe’s Valley is a beautiful place and the various areas are on the hillsides and nestled in the drainages above Orangeville, Utah.  The industrial coal mining operations  sit in harsh contrast to the green beauty of the trees and rivers.  On our drive out from LA I first pictured the area being similar to Moab [...]

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