You know those days when everything just clicks into place? I’ve been having more of those recently… I first saw Tales of Power in the extras on the Sharp End – Madeleine Sorkin and Kate Rutherford were climbing a steep, beautiful thin hands splitter in Yosemite. This is the kind of line I just can’t [...]
Every trip I’ve taken to Indian Creek has been so different, but each is an incredible learning experience for me. There’s something about that place – it’s never quite what I expected, and adjusting my expectations in the face of reality is always a challenging exercise. Instead of writing a play-by-play of the entire trip, [...]
It’s the beginning of the new year and while it seems a little cliche to discuss the events of the past twelve months, I still want to write. For me, 2010 will be remembered as another year of injury and recovery. I haven’t managed a full year of climbing without injury since 2008. Back in [...]
proj·ect n. 1. A plan or proposal; a scheme. See Synonyms at plan. 2. An undertaking requiring concerted effort. 3. An extensive task undertaken by a student or group of students to apply, illustrate, or supplement lessons. My project, of free climbing El Capitan, is one of great proportions. The sheer magnitude of the this [...]
Most of the time I think of myself as a sport climber but I really enjoy being high above the ground. Mutli-pitching takes one beautiful places but it is usually reserved for trad climbers. Two weekends ago we indulged and brought only quickdraws and slings while climbing Cathedral Rock at Mt. Charleston. Despite the many [...]
It happened. We graduated and packed up the Rav to head down to Smith Rock out near Terrebonne, Oregon. I hadn’t been in almost 5 years (since the summer after my junior year in high school) and was stoked to go back and lead some of the routes that fired my initial love of rock [...]
Lizzy on our 13 hour driving day to Utah Last year we went to Indian Creek with a plan and a Tick list. We had looked online and at the 1st edition of the Bloom guide and came up with 27 classics at 11 different crags. These climbs were our main objective and we were [...]
This past weekend the weather was perfect and we had an amazing couple of days in Red Rocks. There were a staggering eight of the San Diego crew out at the Gallery on Saturday so Lizzy and I were able to take a bunch of Photos. Sunday Lizzy and I opted for some solitude and [...]
2008 was a great year. I climbed in a bunch of new areas and gained a lot of endurance that allowed me to complete some of my previous goals. I didn’t get out to try any 5.12 multipitches but in retrospect I doubt I would have been ready. I was able to redpoint some hard [...]
Lizzy and I spent our New Years vacation in Bishop and Mammoth. After a series of winter storms we were worried about the weather in Saint George and the consequences of becoming a belay popsicle while sport climbing. With plenty of jackets and the strong California sun we thought we could brave the weather [...]
This past Sunday on my 4th try of the day, after a nice nap, I lead Equinox without falls. In the same fashion as my previous attempts I preplace gear from TR and then clipped all the cams on lead placing one final cam before topping out. In the way that I climbed the route on top [...]


Recent Comments